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How Gabriela Hearst Became the Art World’s Go-to Designer

We chatted with the woman herself, who dressed five highly accomplished fans in some of her latest clothes.

Nick Sullivan, Published:Sep 1, 2026, Esquire

Gabriela Hearst’s men's collection have a painterly quality about them, always rich in organic color and texture. Often they begin with methodical explorations of hues and patterns sketched in mountains of watercolor-filled notebooks that are strewn everywhere about her Manhattan HQ.

It’s only natural. Hearst was born in Uruguay and raised on a vast family ranch before she took off around the world, soaking in art along the way, and then settled in New York

“People tell me, ‘Your colors are very South American,’ ” she says. “I think a lot of it has to do with the art that I was exposed to and, on the ranch, the most beautiful colors I’ve seen. The most beautiful skies. I’ve seen true beauty from a very young age.”

It’s hardly surprising, then, that she gravitates toward contemporary artists and they, in turn, to her. “I am drawn to passionate people,” she explains. “I think that that’s the main characteristic, and it’s always wonderful when somebody comes into your life and brings that feeling.”

When we asked Hearst if she could rally a few of the folks who bring her that feeling and get them to model her latest clothes, she agreed to indulge us. Read on to meet them all.

Francesco Clemente, 74

Clemente has been a star on the New York and global art scenes since the 1980s, working in multiple media, inspired by India and his native Italy. “Francesco has this deep reverence about him,” says Hearst. “He’s also very interested in the tarot, and he has a very primitive holy streak in his art that I gravitate to in the work I do.”

Rashid Johnson, 48

Johnson is known for his “post-Black” abstract art across diverse media, including painting, photography, audio, and video. “Rashid is the man every man in the world wants to be,” explains Hearst. “I’ve never seen anyone more confident enter a room. It’s so cool to work with him because no one understands colors and texture quite like him. If I had to choose the Gabriela Hearst man, it would be Rashid.”

Adam Pendleton, 42

Virginia-born Pendleton is a key figure in contemporary American abstract art. Defining his work as Black Dada, Pendleton explores painting through expressive layering. “With Adam, it’s a relationship that we started when we collaborated on a three-year project, and a friendship was born from that in an organic, natural way,” says Hearst, “which is beautiful, because you never know quite where it’s going to go.”

Vito Schnabel, 40

Schnabel, son of Julian Schnabel, carved out his own personal space in the art world as a gallerist and dealer while also finding time to write and even act. “Vito is just the freaking coolest,” says Hearst. “He has the kindest heart. I think in order to take care of artists, as he does, it’s almost like taking care of children. You really have to know how to nurture them.”

Javier Estevez Hinojosa, 34

Estevez Hinojosa is a Mexico City–based gallerist and collector known for discovering and promoting up-and-coming contemporary global artists. “Javier has a very cool gallery called Galería Mascota,” says Hearst. “What I love about him is he has a very particular eye, which is a bit edgy, even a little disturbing. I like that he has such a severe point of view but at the same time is an extremely warm guy.”

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