This is a circular runway collection featuring wovens made out of 97% deadstock materials from previous seasons. The remaining deadstock will be used for 83% of its production.
"I have always been fascinated with the Tarot. My mother gave me my first Tarot at 18. I have been going to the same tarot reader for over a decade, every June. There are 78 cards in a tarot deck, 22 of them are the Major Arcana, the subject of this show. They are considered the main episodes in everyone’s life or the journey of the soul. The rest, 56, are divided in the 4 suits: swords (mental), cups (emotional), wands (spiritual) and disks (physical). I have wanted to make a tarot deck of my own for a long time. I wondered why so many artists have been drawn to making tarot decks; Leonora Carrington, Salvador Dali, Francesco Clemente etc. What is that relationship between Art and the Source, the need to communicate with something greater, how to communicate with something that doesn’t have a physical form? But it wasn’t until two different people - a photographer and a film maker - two days apart said to me that it is time to do the tarot. I doubted myself but I trusted the process. We invited the eminence in the subject to teach us, Marianne Costa. I studied
Angeles Arrien’s book and the 1930’s deck of Lady Frieda Harris. Since March 17th, I have thrown the tarot daily, three cards. It takes decades to become a master of reading the symbols and messages, but this ritual became a
grounding anchor. I throw it, study their meaning, write it, photograph it, record it. I sketch every card and I started to see the patterns of which card I would get the most (Ace of Cups, the trusting heart). I realize they are tools to visualize for our minds, which are extremely plastic and can be reprogrammed. The synchronicities started happening. When I get a challenging card, I work through it to reset it. There are 13 challenge cards, 6 of them are swords (mental) which make sense as most of our challenges are within us and our brain perception. This oracle, a medium of which we do not know the origins with certainty, has been with our civilization for centuries or more, always transmitting. Even the run of show that fell into place based on the garments starts with the Empress - the principle of love with wisdom, the Earth Mother - and finishes with the Hangman of surrender, breaking old patterns. For sure this is a time for breaking patterns…"
- Gabriela Hearst
This Spring Summer collection is the second collection inspired by the tarot. The Resort collection was inspired by the Lovers card, Spring Summer by the major Arcana and the next collection, Pre-Fall, will be inspired by the minor Arcana.
The power of the Empress is summoned using a craft technique where 2,500 intricately hand-assembled leather flowers are each applied to a white leather full skirted dress and onto the folds of the Demi clutch bag. This feminine energy is further expressed through organza embroidered with Mia’s flowers, a motif inspired by a drawing by Gabriela’s daughter that is used for an equally voluminous skirt and puff-sleeved blouse.
The Sun features upcycled linen coated in gold aluminium to make a tank dress fully appliquéd with laser-cut leaves. The foiled linen also gives form to a sculptural dress representing the Magician as a grand silhouette in a humble fabric.
The Magician reappears as another linen column dress with multicoloured earth-tone striped sleeves, sculpted into a puffed shape hand crocheted by Madres & Artesanas in Bolivia.
The contrasting textures and geometry of the black and white Wheel of Fortune dress, with its graphic circular panels, includes seamlessly bonded leather combined with silk cady and linen slub.
Justice is represented by a trench coat with voluminous sleeves in sea-island cotton, which is produced in small batches in Barbados and cultivated using natural rainwater irrigation. The Pope designs also use Sea Island cotton, but draped into a pure white dress whose frayed edges are actually embroidered fringe.
The Chariot is evoked by a white aloe linen twisted into different spirals across the bodice, waist and sleeves of a tailored dress, showing both the idea of tranquility and movement.
Strength is shown with silk fringed fabric newly developed to mimic fur in a soft, lightweight fabrication. In another instance, the lion imagery of the card is channeled as as a skirt where a swathe of cobalt suede with a natural raw edge is attached to a hand-macrame panel of silk cashmere yarn intertwined with leather.
Gold-plated charms depicting the tarot’s four suits (disks, cups, wands and swords) as well as a skull charm representing Death were sourced from the dead-stock of historic Rhode Island costume jewelery factories. These charms are hand-applied on the individual fringes of a cashew suede coat and skirt, chiming together to evoke the Death card and its message of new beginnings.
The charms are also hand-applied onto leather fringes as well as strung onto silk necklaces handmade by the design team in the Gabriela Hearst studio. These are sometimes layered with leather fob necklaces painted with gold foil and black pigment referencing the Hermit's lantern.
The Devil appears as a chocolate wool and cashmere knit dress with suede and silk cording macrame bustier cups.
Temperance is depicted in both cashew suede and cashmere in the form of a flowing cape and a and a mulberry silk micro boucle yarn long-sleeve dress with an inverted triangle of macrame openwork at the chest.
The Moon is hand-painted onto a Moto jacket worn with half-linen denim and half leather jeans. It is further rendered as a solid 18K gold disk necklace, each hand hammered and polished in New York's jewelery district.
The Emperor is expressed with a new fabric developed to look like humble straw but is actually sumptuous silk hand-knotted into dresses and separates.
The Star is represented by the 1,200 multi-coloured leather stars in different sizes that are individually cut out, edge painted and hand-embroidered together to form a floor-length dress, coat and the panels of the tie-detail Marija tote. In knitwear, the stars were each individually crocheted by Madres & Artisans in Bolivia and hand assembled into garments.
A hooded black knit dress with a stark cutout in micro boucle of pure silk has elongated fluid sleeves that show the reach of Judgement’s reawakening. Gabriela's hand drawings of the four elements, which incorporate all the colours of the collection, are rendered as intarsias in double layered sweaters with embroidery, and are either garment or panel-printed onto light cashmere silk jersey knit and recycled denim. The drawings are further abstracted into hand-woven leather accessories and crocheted top-handle Nina handbags.
The Hangman card informs the look that closes the show and represents the idea of surrender. Black suede and cashmere merino knit form a column dress with a linear braided leather detail wrapped around its form.
Footwear includes a raffia slipper interwoven into a suede reinforcing the image of Force, as well as newly rendered versions of the house’s Striker sandal. Meant to evoke the Lovers' tarot card in its juxtaposition of smooth leather and textured water snake, the Striker's straps stem from a suede-covered base.
The collection introduces the Dern shoulder bag, with its signature rose-gold turn lock hardware on the strap, structured leather-inlaid bar hardware and tonal mix of snake, nappa and suede surfaces. The Antonia bag also launches this season in two sizes, with its supple Napa twisted into knots.
Continuing an initiative we started in Fall 2025, vintage leather backpacks are restored, embellished with exotic skin panelling and reconfigured with custom hardware to create one of a kind pieces.
The House signature 18K gold chains include accent links each featuring over 400 micro-pavé black diamonds. Streamlined 18K solid gold bangles and hoop earrings round out the collection.
An 18K gold 'braid' chain necklace and bracelet representing The Emperor are also hand-made in New York. Each element in these designs is linked by a hand-crafted invisible hinge mechanism that allows the entire piece to move fluidly and seamlessly.
The collection embodies real carbon elimination through innovation, material reduction, and business model transformation in line with Climate Pledge's goals.
"Fear Not. What is not real, never was and never will be. What is real, always was and cannot be destroyed."
- Bhagavad Gita (about The Fool in The Tarot Handbook by Angeles Arrien